Markethouse Restaurant – 611 N. Fairbanks (Gold Coast)

Don’t Pass Up: The Mac & Cheese

Don’t Bother Ordering: The Hummus

Expect: B- service; A- food; $$$ prices

Uniqueness: Single-serving bread

Summary: If staying at the Doubletree this place is a nice treat, but if in the area there are plenty of other good options.

Markethouse, the Gold Coast Doubletree’s inviting eatery led by Executive Chef Steve Walton, delivers in some areas, but doesn’t reinvent the typical hotel restaurant. Markethouse’s signature is fresh, seasonal fare served in a warm, sophisticated atmosphere. Though the main entrance is strategically placed away from the hotel’s entrance, you will need to venture into Doubletree’s lobby to use the lavatory which takes away from the essence.

The menu is brief, but well-equipped to satisfy almost anyone with dishes ranging from Markethouse Meatloaf to Snail and Andouille Sausage Risotto. We started with the Roasted Red Pepper Hummus while we waited for the cooked-to-order Mac & Cheese appetizer. The hummus was creatively topped with crumbled goat cheese and a pickled relish. Unfortunately, once through the topping the hummus itself was bland and tasteless. The Mac & Cheese came to the table in a hot-to-the-touch cast iron dish, which alone lends itself to authenticity. It was creamy and rich without being globbed up with cheese or greasy. The addition of chives and smoked bacon gave it a unique flavor. Delish! I was impressed that they almost got the bread right, providing single servings of it out of a basket to guarantee freshness. It was warm and flavorful, but no good for those who like to pig out on pre-meal bread. Perfect for those of us who avoid it at all costs.

Our meals were the Trout (not Rainbow on this particular night) and a half-slab of the Baby Back Ribs. The Trout was garnished with a tasty mix of puffed whole grain rice and pickled vegetables. But the puffed rice did resemble a bed of maggots. Not a good thought when diving into a dish. The Trout itself was slightly overcooked, but using it to sop of the luscious apple cider vinaigrette pooled on the plate improved the taste 100%. The Baby Back Ribs were also a bit dry and would have benefited from a dip in instead of a brush with the tasty bbq sauce. Though there was nothing truly imaginative about the rib plate, the smokiness was perfect and the meat tender.

The service was a bit sketchy. Our server described the menu the flourish of a veteran, but then couldn’t get the timing right on our dinners; serving them right up against the delivery of the Mac & Cheese. I also waited 10 minutes for a second glass of wine after ordering it and my company was half way through his rib plate before she came to see if he would like ketchup for the fries. The layout of the place seemed to be an afterthought. There were no appropriate table sizes for the lone or coupled parties that typically visit hotel restaurants. My guest and I were seated a table for two that could have sat four. The couple next to us was at a round table with enough seating for six.