Don't Pass Up: The Hummus
Don't Bother Ordering: N/A
Expect: Arrive early for "A" service, "A" food courtesy of BIN36, $$ prices
Uniqueness: Not the bar food you'd expect by any stretch
Summary: We came, we drank, we ate, we will be back
Crimson Lounge is River North's richly decorated, red-themed lounge. Although it is typical of a downtown lounge: a posh, dark singles spot, I was impressed by the down-to-earth staff.
Rick and I stopped in for drinks just before the premier of the Cubs movie, Believe, at The Chicago Theater. After a few glasses of wine for me and beer for Rick we were both ready for some snacks. I don't expect what is considered "typical" bar food from a place like Crimson. Places like this have redefined "bar food" into something prettier, pricier, but just as mediocre. I ordered the hummus because it is usually the least offensive to my diet. I wasn't prepared for the divine dish of mashed chickpeas that was served to me. It was a perfect blend of cumin, citrus, and spices. I love hummus and tend to get it anywhere I can; restaurants, cafes, grocery stores, etc. This was by far the best I've had to-date, even from the Mediterranean restaurants that I frequent. (FYI: I now know that Crimson is catered by BIN36.) If you find yourself at Crimson for drinks or a night-out definitely do not miss the hummus!
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Markethouse Restaurant – 611 N. Fairbanks (Gold Coast)
Don’t Pass Up: The Mac & Cheese
Don’t Bother Ordering: The Hummus
Expect: B- service; A- food; $$$ prices
Uniqueness: Single-serving bread
Summary: If staying at the Doubletree this place is a nice treat, but if in the area there are plenty of other good options.
Markethouse, the Gold Coast Doubletree’s inviting eatery led by Executive Chef Steve Walton, delivers in some areas, but doesn’t reinvent the typical hotel restaurant. Markethouse’s signature is fresh, seasonal fare served in a warm, sophisticated atmosphere. Though the main entrance is strategically placed away from the hotel’s entrance, you will need to venture into Doubletree’s lobby to use the lavatory which takes away from the essence.
The menu is brief, but well-equipped to satisfy almost anyone with dishes ranging from Markethouse Meatloaf to Snail and Andouille Sausage Risotto. We started with the Roasted Red Pepper Hummus while we waited for the cooked-to-order Mac & Cheese appetizer. The hummus was creatively topped with crumbled goat cheese and a pickled relish. Unfortunately, once through the topping the hummus itself was bland and tasteless. The Mac & Cheese came to the table in a hot-to-the-touch cast iron dish, which alone lends itself to authenticity. It was creamy and rich without being globbed up with cheese or greasy. The addition of chives and smoked bacon gave it a unique flavor. Delish! I was impressed that they almost got the bread right, providing single servings of it out of a basket to guarantee freshness. It was warm and flavorful, but no good for those who like to pig out on pre-meal bread. Perfect for those of us who avoid it at all costs.
Our meals were the Trout (not Rainbow on this particular night) and a half-slab of the Baby Back Ribs. The Trout was garnished with a tasty mix of puffed whole grain rice and pickled vegetables. But the puffed rice did resemble a bed of maggots. Not a good thought when diving into a dish. The Trout itself was slightly overcooked, but using it to sop of the luscious apple cider vinaigrette pooled on the plate improved the taste 100%. The Baby Back Ribs were also a bit dry and would have benefited from a dip in instead of a brush with the tasty bbq sauce. Though there was nothing truly imaginative about the rib plate, the smokiness was perfect and the meat tender.
The service was a bit sketchy. Our server described the menu the flourish of a veteran, but then couldn’t get the timing right on our dinners; serving them right up against the delivery of the Mac & Cheese. I also waited 10 minutes for a second glass of wine after ordering it and my company was half way through his rib plate before she came to see if he would like ketchup for the fries. The layout of the place seemed to be an afterthought. There were no appropriate table sizes for the lone or coupled parties that typically visit hotel restaurants. My guest and I were seated a table for two that could have sat four. The couple next to us was at a round table with enough seating for six.
Monday, October 12, 2009
A Lesson from Bourdain
On a recent rerun of No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain (The Discover Channel: http://www.travelchannel.com/TV_Shows/Anthony_Bourdain), Tony decided that in his travels abroad he had neglected all of the ethnic, specialty, and other fine foods throughout his hometown of New York. In visits to the boroughs, Tony experienced much of what he had all over the globe: authentic, soulful cuisine. Only now he was struck with a sadness brought on by the thought that in all his years traveling the world he had never experienced what was right next door. With that in mind I vowed to let all of the delicious cuisine I experience in places the mainstream population may never venture envelope me. A sort of "stop-and-smell-the-roses" approach that relies on all five of my senses.
First stop: the Maxwell Street Market. Originally a wooden plank road that ran from the south branch of the Chicago River west to Blue Island Avenue, Maxwell Street has seen many transitions in its 150+ year existence. The most recent of those transitions being from the seedy, yet familiar section of the city that was home to "Jew Town" to the bustling mixture of brand-new UIC housing, trendy restaurants and typical chain and little-known pre-transition retailers. Each and every Sunday this mixed up piece of land just east of the 94 E-way is descended upon by hundreds of vendors selling everything from used shoes to new cell phones.
Largely overtaken by the Hispanic population, you are hard-pressed to find a food stand serving something other than tacos, quesadillas, tamales, or elote. People gather at folding tables under grimy tents while generator-powered 'kitchens' turn out some of the best, and sometimes worst food Mexican food in the city. Either way you slice it though, it is authentic. Take for instance the rarely seen Huarache, a tostada-like concoction served on soft masa flatbread named for it's likeness to the sole of the Mexican sandal. Of all the Mexican food I eat I'd never had this delight. The flatbread is made similar to a tortilla, but the inside is smeared with beans and it fluffs up when heated. It is so soft and succulent that you could put just about anything on it and have it taste good. You have your choice of meat with which it can be topped and of course the staples lechuga (lettuce), tomate, queso y crema.
Sitting there eating my huarache, I looked around to see people of all different creeds and colors doing the same. With thick smoke periodically billowing off of the grill, the chaos of food orders being yelled back and forth in Spanish, and the vendor selling generic children's toys just across the way, I almost forgot that I was only minutes from downtown Chicago. I began to wonder how good the Huarache would be if the table didn't fold or the tablecloth covering it wasn't questionably stained. How authentic could this meal possibly being served in the street from a no-name food stand? In my research I discovered a restaurant offering Huaraches. I intend to seek it out, but my expectations aren't going to be high and I'll be thanking my stars that the Maxwell Street Market is a year-round affair.
First stop: the Maxwell Street Market. Originally a wooden plank road that ran from the south branch of the Chicago River west to Blue Island Avenue, Maxwell Street has seen many transitions in its 150+ year existence. The most recent of those transitions being from the seedy, yet familiar section of the city that was home to "Jew Town" to the bustling mixture of brand-new UIC housing, trendy restaurants and typical chain and little-known pre-transition retailers. Each and every Sunday this mixed up piece of land just east of the 94 E-way is descended upon by hundreds of vendors selling everything from used shoes to new cell phones.
Largely overtaken by the Hispanic population, you are hard-pressed to find a food stand serving something other than tacos, quesadillas, tamales, or elote. People gather at folding tables under grimy tents while generator-powered 'kitchens' turn out some of the best, and sometimes worst food Mexican food in the city. Either way you slice it though, it is authentic. Take for instance the rarely seen Huarache, a tostada-like concoction served on soft masa flatbread named for it's likeness to the sole of the Mexican sandal. Of all the Mexican food I eat I'd never had this delight. The flatbread is made similar to a tortilla, but the inside is smeared with beans and it fluffs up when heated. It is so soft and succulent that you could put just about anything on it and have it taste good. You have your choice of meat with which it can be topped and of course the staples lechuga (lettuce), tomate, queso y crema.
Sitting there eating my huarache, I looked around to see people of all different creeds and colors doing the same. With thick smoke periodically billowing off of the grill, the chaos of food orders being yelled back and forth in Spanish, and the vendor selling generic children's toys just across the way, I almost forgot that I was only minutes from downtown Chicago. I began to wonder how good the Huarache would be if the table didn't fold or the tablecloth covering it wasn't questionably stained. How authentic could this meal possibly being served in the street from a no-name food stand? In my research I discovered a restaurant offering Huaraches. I intend to seek it out, but my expectations aren't going to be high and I'll be thanking my stars that the Maxwell Street Market is a year-round affair.
Huaraches Dona Chio
1547 West Elmdale Avenue, Chicago IL 60660; 773-878-8470
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Shuckin' Good Gumbo
Gumbo is one of those dishes that will always be a mystery to me. Like so many other regional specialties in this country, gumbo consists of relatively basic ingredients combined with a intricate blend of spices that I won't even attempt to get right. Therefore, I rely solely on the source: true to the game southern bayou chefs. Unfortunately, those are few and far between in Chicago. Sure, I've had gumbo here or there, but it's been nothing memorable. So ignorant was I to the taste of really good gumbo that even when I visited New Orleans it didn't cross my mind to order it at the local restaurants. Oh what I have missed.
Just this weekend Forest Park held its first annual Oysterpalooza, brought to our neck of the woods by The Shuckin Grill (aka The Gem Deli & Market: http://www.gemdelimarket.com/). I was first introduced to the Shuckin Grill at the Near West Oktoberfest, also held in Forest Park. I was skeptical of the restaurant only because it took one of two restaurant spaces in Forest Park that can't decide what it wants to be. And each time the identity changes I lose faith. But at Oktoberfest Shuckin Grill won me over with their freshly shucked raw oysters (seriously there was a guy right there shuckin away) and creative cooked oysters; including blue cheese fried oysters and a delectable oyster gumbo.
But at Oysterpalooza they brought out the big guns with the shrimp gumbo. A perfectly seasoned, exceptionally hearty mix of shrimp, fresh garlic, tomatoes, vegetables, and rue served over...get ready for this...grits! Grits so smooth and buttery that they melted in my mouth. It was one of those times that even if I had never tasted gumbo before I would've known that this was the best gumbo I may ever have. I thank Rick for buying it in the first place because I never would have. I can't wait to go back to Shuckin Grill and get a full serving. I only hope that it wasn't just good batch. As we all know, CONSISTENCY is key in the cooking biz.
Just this weekend Forest Park held its first annual Oysterpalooza, brought to our neck of the woods by The Shuckin Grill (aka The Gem Deli & Market: http://www.gemdelimarket.com/). I was first introduced to the Shuckin Grill at the Near West Oktoberfest, also held in Forest Park. I was skeptical of the restaurant only because it took one of two restaurant spaces in Forest Park that can't decide what it wants to be. And each time the identity changes I lose faith. But at Oktoberfest Shuckin Grill won me over with their freshly shucked raw oysters (seriously there was a guy right there shuckin away) and creative cooked oysters; including blue cheese fried oysters and a delectable oyster gumbo.
But at Oysterpalooza they brought out the big guns with the shrimp gumbo. A perfectly seasoned, exceptionally hearty mix of shrimp, fresh garlic, tomatoes, vegetables, and rue served over...get ready for this...grits! Grits so smooth and buttery that they melted in my mouth. It was one of those times that even if I had never tasted gumbo before I would've known that this was the best gumbo I may ever have. I thank Rick for buying it in the first place because I never would have. I can't wait to go back to Shuckin Grill and get a full serving. I only hope that it wasn't just good batch. As we all know, CONSISTENCY is key in the cooking biz.
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