Torta Frontera Delights My Skeptical Palate

Don't Pass Up: The Smokey Garlic Shrimp torta
Don't Bother Ordering: The Fully-dressed Guacamole - if you must choose your toppings carefully
Expect: A service, A food, $$ prices
Uniqueness: With no shortage of food options at O'Hare it's still nice to have a spot that you don't go to just for the bar.
Summary: The newest addition to the Bayless family, Torta Frontera does an amazing job of pairing unexpected, non-traditional foods and techniques to make innovative, delicious Mexican staples.


I'm reopening the book on my brief, uneventful food critic career for a very special experience. I've always been skeptical of Rick Bayless if for no other reason than his non-Hispanic heritage. I know - for shame. But Tortas Frontera shut my mouth. Immediately upon sitting down at the bar you're transported from gate B11 at one of the world's busiest airports to a cantina in Mexico City. The lively music drowns out all remnants of last boarding calls (be warned) and is almost as intoxicating as the favorably strong Deal Maker Margarita. The only thing that kept me from dancing - aside from the absence of my husband - was the Smoky Garlic Shrimp torta that was served to me in an unassuming brown cardboard box (a note to the recycled materials found throughout the establishment). 

The bread is toasted to a crispy crunch, unlike any torta I've ever seen, while the shrimp with it's just right spice is perfectly accented with creamy goat cheese, poblano peppers and arugula. Goat cheese and tortas...who knew?? The accompanying salsa is as authentic as any other (aside from the mild flavor), but - in my opinion - is not needed lest you are a salsa junkie and demand the extra moisture. Everything was so good I had to stop in (from an entirely different terminal) on my flight back in to pick up more for my husband to try. This time the Pepito was vastly overshadowed by the Chipotle Chicken and the fully-dressed guacamole was too salty to eat. Not sure if it the chips, bacon, or other toppings were the culprit. 

All in all, Timeout Chicago wasn't kidding when in 2011 they named Torta Frontera "the best reason to fly again". Lord knows this airport needs one. Thank you Bayless for showcasing the beautiful food that Chicago has to offer at one of the least likely of places. And to think this used to be a Quizno's...ha!

Jerusalem Cafe Satisfies

Don't Pass Up: The Beef Kabob
Don't Bother Ordering: The Salmon
Expect: B service, B- food, $ prices
Uniqueness: Decent cuisine is served up quick with unexpected table service, so sit back, relax and enjoy!
Summary: Jerusalem Cafe hits where supposed to and misses in places that are easy to ignore. Find a few favs and you'll go back again and again.

Don't let the "cafe" or the cafeteria-style garnish bar fool you.  This Oak Park fast-casual spot serves up decent Mediterranean fare. I was impressed by the creamy texture of the humus.  Though most Mediterranean restaurants or store bought versions are good, they can be overly heavy and chunky.  Jerusalem cafe has perfected the art of both a great garnish and dip in their humus. Many dishes are served with grilled vegetables.  I wouldn't call these exactly fresh though they are served up in a deliciously familiar sauce whose flavor we weren't quite able to put our fingers on, but thoroughly enjoyed. 

I usually stick with the veggie platter, a generous helping of falafel, hummus, babaganoush, and tabouleh.  This time around I went with the Salmon Platter, which I soon regretted.  The hummus and grilled vegetables delivered great taste as expected, but the safron rice and salmon were a miss.  The rice was cooked to perfection, but lacked even a hint of seasoning.  The fish was just the opposite.  It was infused with a heavenly lemon flavor, but was cooked to the consientency of dry terrycloth. Blech!  The pita bread is also a miss.  When not paired with the huge helpings of humus and babaganoush on the veggie platter, the severe dryness of the room temperature flatbread prevails. 

I'll end on a high note by praising the transcendant flavor and texture of the Beef Kabob.  Another reason for me to re-think my status as a vegetarian.  A quick taste of the meat for the purpose of review left my mouth watering. I watched my companion finish it off with feelings of deep jealousy.  Especially since I was left with my terrycloth salmon.

The Shuckin' Grill Delights Again - CLOSED

Don’t Pass Up: The Bread Pudding

Don’t Bother Ordering: N/A

Expect: B service; A food; Mostly $, some $$ prices

Uniqueness:Four words - Cajun, Tapas, Oyster Bar...need I say more?

Summary: It's eclectic and a ways from fine dining, but don't leave Forest Park without trying.



Unfortunately, Shuckin Grill just couldn't find its niche. With a so-so staff mostly made up of family members and eclectic part-tapas, part-cajun, part-southern, part-oyster bar identity, this place had great potential, but no future. You might remember a mention of the Shuckin' Grill in an earlier post (my first I think).  Well I finally got a chance to visit the actual restaurant, and though the awkward seating and tacky decor of the earlier tenant remains, the food is definitely a move in the right direction.  Reasonable prices and portions have turned this into a great, spontaneous to go place for Rick and me.  Last Friday, we stopped in a for a quick appetizer after a wine tasting at HouseRed (http://www.house-red.com/).  Of course a full-blown meal ensued.

Rick started with the Pheasant and Andouille Sausage Gumbo.  It was a little too soupy for my taste and didn't compare to the Shrimp Gumbo they served up at Oysterpalooza weeks before, but the flavor was there and good. We each enjoyed their peppered, whipped butter and the warm, barely toasted sliced baguette served along side.  The Charbroiled Oysters are a favorite of ours and did not disappoint.  The oyster flavor shines through the decadent garlic, tomato, parsley, and onion topping. Served bubbling in a cast iron dish similar to an Escargots dish, the Stuffed Oysters are served in lemon butter sauce with pancetta then topped with a crusty layer of melted Romano cheese.  Delightful!

We couldn't leave without experiencing the Caramel Apple Bread Pudding and I'm so glad we didn't.  It was one of those dishes that makes you sad to know that God made such sugar and calorie laden food so damn good.  Rich, sweet, and indulgent the pudding was the perfect consistency. The only thing that would have improved it was a dollop of vanilla ice cream. Can't wait to go back!

Surprising from Crimson Lounge

Don't Pass Up: The Hummus
Don't Bother Ordering: N/A
Expect: Arrive early for "A" service, "A" food courtesy of BIN36, $$ prices
Uniqueness: Not the bar food you'd expect by any stretch
Summary: We came, we drank, we ate, we will be back

Crimson Lounge is River North's richly decorated, red-themed lounge. Although it is typical of a downtown lounge: a posh, dark singles spot, I was impressed by the down-to-earth staff.

Rick and I stopped in for drinks just before the premier of the Cubs movie, Believe, at The Chicago Theater. After a few glasses of wine for me and beer for Rick we were both ready for some snacks. I don't expect what is considered "typical" bar food from a place like Crimson. Places like this have redefined "bar food" into something prettier, pricier, but just as mediocre. I ordered the hummus because it is usually the least offensive to my diet. I wasn't prepared for the divine dish of mashed chickpeas that was served to me. It was a perfect blend of cumin, citrus, and spices. I love hummus and tend to get it anywhere I can; restaurants, cafes, grocery stores, etc. This was by far the best I've had to-date, even from the Mediterranean restaurants that I frequent. (FYI: I now know that Crimson is catered by BIN36.) If you find yourself at Crimson for drinks or a night-out definitely do not miss the hummus!

Markethouse Restaurant – 611 N. Fairbanks (Gold Coast)

Don’t Pass Up: The Mac & Cheese

Don’t Bother Ordering: The Hummus

Expect: B- service; A- food; $$$ prices

Uniqueness: Single-serving bread

Summary: If staying at the Doubletree this place is a nice treat, but if in the area there are plenty of other good options.

Markethouse, the Gold Coast Doubletree’s inviting eatery led by Executive Chef Steve Walton, delivers in some areas, but doesn’t reinvent the typical hotel restaurant. Markethouse’s signature is fresh, seasonal fare served in a warm, sophisticated atmosphere. Though the main entrance is strategically placed away from the hotel’s entrance, you will need to venture into Doubletree’s lobby to use the lavatory which takes away from the essence.

The menu is brief, but well-equipped to satisfy almost anyone with dishes ranging from Markethouse Meatloaf to Snail and Andouille Sausage Risotto. We started with the Roasted Red Pepper Hummus while we waited for the cooked-to-order Mac & Cheese appetizer. The hummus was creatively topped with crumbled goat cheese and a pickled relish. Unfortunately, once through the topping the hummus itself was bland and tasteless. The Mac & Cheese came to the table in a hot-to-the-touch cast iron dish, which alone lends itself to authenticity. It was creamy and rich without being globbed up with cheese or greasy. The addition of chives and smoked bacon gave it a unique flavor. Delish! I was impressed that they almost got the bread right, providing single servings of it out of a basket to guarantee freshness. It was warm and flavorful, but no good for those who like to pig out on pre-meal bread. Perfect for those of us who avoid it at all costs.

Our meals were the Trout (not Rainbow on this particular night) and a half-slab of the Baby Back Ribs. The Trout was garnished with a tasty mix of puffed whole grain rice and pickled vegetables. But the puffed rice did resemble a bed of maggots. Not a good thought when diving into a dish. The Trout itself was slightly overcooked, but using it to sop of the luscious apple cider vinaigrette pooled on the plate improved the taste 100%. The Baby Back Ribs were also a bit dry and would have benefited from a dip in instead of a brush with the tasty bbq sauce. Though there was nothing truly imaginative about the rib plate, the smokiness was perfect and the meat tender.

The service was a bit sketchy. Our server described the menu the flourish of a veteran, but then couldn’t get the timing right on our dinners; serving them right up against the delivery of the Mac & Cheese. I also waited 10 minutes for a second glass of wine after ordering it and my company was half way through his rib plate before she came to see if he would like ketchup for the fries. The layout of the place seemed to be an afterthought. There were no appropriate table sizes for the lone or coupled parties that typically visit hotel restaurants. My guest and I were seated a table for two that could have sat four. The couple next to us was at a round table with enough seating for six.

A Lesson from Bourdain

On a recent rerun of No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain (The Discover Channel: http://www.travelchannel.com/TV_Shows/Anthony_Bourdain), Tony decided that in his travels abroad he had neglected all of the ethnic, specialty, and other fine foods throughout his hometown of New York. In visits to the boroughs, Tony experienced much of what he had all over the globe: authentic, soulful cuisine. Only now he was struck with a sadness brought on by the thought that in all his years traveling the world he had never experienced what was right next door. With that in mind I vowed to let all of the delicious cuisine I experience in places the mainstream population may never venture envelope me. A sort of "stop-and-smell-the-roses" approach that relies on all five of my senses.

First stop: the Maxwell Street Market. Originally a wooden plank road that ran from the south branch of the Chicago River west to Blue Island Avenue, Maxwell Street has seen many transitions in its 150+ year existence. The most recent of those transitions being from the seedy, yet familiar section of the city that was home to "Jew Town" to the bustling mixture of brand-new UIC housing, trendy restaurants and typical chain and little-known pre-transition retailers. Each and every Sunday this mixed up piece of land just east of the 94 E-way is descended upon by hundreds of vendors selling everything from used shoes to new cell phones.

Largely overtaken by the Hispanic population, you are hard-pressed to find a food stand serving something other than tacos, quesadillas, tamales, or elote. People gather at folding tables under grimy tents while generator-powered 'kitchens' turn out some of the best, and sometimes worst food Mexican food in the city. Either way you slice it though, it is authentic. Take for instance the rarely seen Huarache, a tostada-like concoction served on soft masa flatbread named for it's likeness to the sole of the Mexican sandal. Of all the Mexican food I eat I'd never had this delight. The flatbread is made similar to a tortilla, but the inside is smeared with beans and it fluffs up when heated. It is so soft and succulent that you could put just about anything on it and have it taste good. You have your choice of meat with which it can be topped and of course the staples lechuga (lettuce), tomate, queso y crema.

Sitting there eating my huarache, I looked around to see people of all different creeds and colors doing the same. With thick smoke periodically billowing off of the grill, the chaos of food orders being yelled back and forth in Spanish, and the vendor selling generic children's toys just across the way, I almost forgot that I was only minutes from downtown Chicago. I began to wonder how good the Huarache would be if the table didn't fold or the tablecloth covering it wasn't questionably stained. How authentic could this meal possibly being served in the street from a no-name food stand? In my research I discovered a restaurant offering Huaraches. I intend to seek it out, but my expectations aren't going to be high and I'll be thanking my stars that the Maxwell Street Market is a year-round affair.

Huaraches Dona Chio

1547 West Elmdale Avenue, Chicago IL 60660; 773-878-8470

Shuckin' Good Gumbo

Gumbo is one of those dishes that will always be a mystery to me. Like so many other regional specialties in this country, gumbo consists of relatively basic ingredients combined with a intricate blend of spices that I won't even attempt to get right. Therefore, I rely solely on the source: true to the game southern bayou chefs. Unfortunately, those are few and far between in Chicago. Sure, I've had gumbo here or there, but it's been nothing memorable. So ignorant was I to the taste of really good gumbo that even when I visited New Orleans it didn't cross my mind to order it at the local restaurants. Oh what I have missed.

Just this weekend Forest Park held its first annual Oysterpalooza, brought to our neck of the woods by The Shuckin Grill (aka The Gem Deli & Market: http://www.gemdelimarket.com/). I was first introduced to the Shuckin Grill at the Near West Oktoberfest, also held in Forest Park. I was skeptical of the restaurant only because it took one of two restaurant spaces in Forest Park that can't decide what it wants to be. And each time the identity changes I lose faith. But at Oktoberfest Shuckin Grill won me over with their freshly shucked raw oysters (seriously there was a guy right there shuckin away) and creative cooked oysters; including blue cheese fried oysters and a delectable oyster gumbo.

But at Oysterpalooza they brought out the big guns with the shrimp gumbo. A perfectly seasoned, exceptionally hearty mix of shrimp, fresh garlic, tomatoes, vegetables, and rue served over...get ready for this...grits! Grits so smooth and buttery that they melted in my mouth. It was one of those times that even if I had never tasted gumbo before I would've known that this was the best gumbo I may ever have. I thank Rick for buying it in the first place because I never would have. I can't wait to go back to Shuckin Grill and get a full serving. I only hope that it wasn't just good batch. As we all know, CONSISTENCY is key in the cooking biz.